Nairobi

Yeah that's right. Like a BOSS 
Worth and I taking advantage of his father's club membership at the Hilton. 15th floor right next to the Executive Lounge where you need to be a member to enter.

And that the BOSS veiw.

What a CITY

LIES. They didn't even know what a deep dish was. This was in the food court of a big mall here

Carnivores. Said to be one of the top 50 restaurants in the world is a restaurant very much like Fogo de Chao. There is all types of meats cooked on huge skewers and the menu is already set. A waiter comes by with hot minty towels to cleanse your hands and then the feast begins. It's about $40 per person and you start with the soup of the day and for us it was a green "vegetable" soup, which was pretty good. After that they bring you a portable lazy Susan with 6 Salads Greek, Salsa, Sweet Corn, Three Bean Salad, Baby Marrow & Coleslaw and 6 sauces (Garlic, Horseradish, Mint, Apple, Chili & Chutney) to compliment the range of meat as you are given a crash course on the names of the sauces and what type of meat each sauce is for. Each person gets a salad and the table gets bread and butter. At this point they bring cast iron plates and the meat just starts flooding in. We had ostrich meat balls, bull testicles, alligator (didn’t like it at all), camel (too salty), leg of lamb, chicken legs and wings, beef steaks and other things that I don’t eat like pork ribs and anything else pork. There is a flag on top of the lazy Susan and when you want no more meat and surrender you put the flag down and the Susan will be taken and you will have your choice of deserts; Chocolate Mousse, Fruit Salad with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top, Ice Cream, Malva Pudding, Cheese Cake or Tea/Coffee. Mwah, a great dinner.

Tuk Tuk

Tuk Tuk (took took) and Matatus are the man forms of transpot in Mombasa. There is great tension and rivary between the drivers of the each though of course there is also a level of respect.  Tuk Tuk is 50 shilings (65 cents) to close places on the Island where as matatus are only 40 shilings to the furthest though you will be packed in like sardines. This is the tuk tuk that brought me back from lunch. The driver's name is Mohmad and he has a brand new Tuk Tuk that he spruced up with the Ferrari logo. In our short conversation of about five mintues I found out that his wife was in Miami, FL for ten years doing this nursing program but now she is back and working at a hostpital here. He never been to the states but she helped him start his business in which he makes more than 2,000 shilings a day after expenses though they have long hours. Some tuk tuk drivers are homeless. After they work there is a place where they park their vehicle and sleep on the three person seat. Due to the pleasant weather thats all the shelter they need from the elements. They awake with the sun and the noise of the city at 6am and begin their day. 

America is Everywhere

Dre wanted to see if he compared to the depiction of the color of Americans.

There is good that the American government does around the world like in this Secondary Lamu school the government funded the construction and currently provide a fully loaded computer lap.


There is even an "American Corner" in the library of the small island of Pemba that offers an airconditioned room and free internet. The boss of this place was so excited to see Americans since Pemba isn't really a touristy place to go. He said that he would tell the embassy that they had us come through probably to insure the future funding. 

Youth Counter Culture

Intro/Background

Examining the Eastern coast of Kenya through the perspective of an African Youth raised in America it is of no surprise that I related and had a certain affinity towards those on the coast in my age group. Looking at these youths and seeing a reflection of myself fostered a desire to critically analysis their experiences and the counter culture that they were able to create which circumvents the constraints of a conservative Muslim culture.

Globalization is a great factor in the manifestation of this youth culture, which is not necessarily a negative thing. Globalization is not innately evil or bad. It is the homogenous domination of one culture over other cultures that is not palatable.  If the dissemination of information, technology and knowledge is done in an egalitarian and mutually respectful way then societies and cultures learn from each other and share ideas that will empower the masses and help the progression of the human race. We should not race to lose/sacrifice our culture in the hopes of attaining the dominant races culture because of the “white privilege” that might come with it; we should pace and look at aspects of the “dominate culture” that we can incorporate in to our own culture. 

Methodology/Field Work/Discoveries

To examine/assess the situation and the issue I had to not make the mistake that many scholars do which is going into the environment wanting to look at something specific instead of immersing yourself in the culture and eventually noticing the reoccurring trials and themes.

Though I am African and share a come history with these youths did not mean that the reason I was able to be accepted in this group is tied to the color of my skin though of course it didn’t hurt. The best way to move away from the out group of “wazungu” and into the in group of Mombasa youth was to interact and allow yourself to be known. So through joining in on open soccer games at Fort Jesus everyday, talking to those that we can relate to and exchanging numbers and hanging out during the night scenes they stopped telling me that their name was for example “Cappuccino” and showed their true face and called themselves by their given names like, Abdullah.  Tourist never get to this because they seem to only want to know the surface information and the basic/ easy way to communicate to them which the youths are okay with only because of the monetary benefits that follow. To further speak on that; One evening after playing soccer and walking back to the homestay I ran into a local youth who just so happen to speak French. We had a 15-minute conversation in which I asked him why he is a guide and how he feels about the tourist. He said that he liked them because as a hustler who dropped out of secondary school to try to take care of his siblings they give him the business he needs to survive. I asked him if there was ever a time when the tourist doesn’t pay ?  This question triggered a story about a British man that agreed to paying 500 shillings ($7) an hour for a historical tour and after three hours when the youth should have been paid 1500 the British guy gave him only 500 shillings.  At this point I found out how he really felt about tourist. He said that he refused to take what the British guy gave him and I quote he said, “fucking English they do this a lot. They want me to beg but I won’t I’m working out here and if he doesn’t want to pay me then to hell with him.” This told me that just like blacks who work anywhere in service to the status quo their contentment is tied to the money that they can gain but their happiness is mostly theatrical and scripted. On a different day after leaving soccer I saw some of these same youths around smoking and I asked why do they smoke even though I suspected it to be a coping mechanisms to help feel better and revert back to who they are outside of the characters they play all day. He said that “it’s good it takes your mind off things and let you just enjoy “.

In Lamu I witnessed the same things. A scripted "play" being recreated whenever they think tourist are coming. Beach boy culture is the epitome of this. They too had names that were easy. I met a guy named Happy, Dolphin and Akon. I saw the same usage of drugs amongst youth in Lamu. One day the captain of our ship and the crew were smoking weed while we were heading to Shela.

In Zanzibar there was the same culture because tourism is also big there. Pemba on the other hand though had similar issues it was not due to tourism since tourism isn’t big there. Which further tells us that tourism isn’t the problem but that poverty and lack of economic gain is. In Pemba we saw youth doing their own form of hustling; after the rain children collected sand to sell, drugs was still being done, and there was even a festival where on a majority Muslim island alcohol was being served and consumed. Drug use was not witnessed in Pemba though we did go to the rehabilitation centers. Interesting enough, even though there were nicknames in Pemba every youth I met told me their given name when asked and then in time I hear their nickname from other youths. These names were not objects or random things and was usually a version of their name or their character or appearance.

Critical Analysis

The source of most of these youth issues/problems, which lands them outside of school and as tour guides or some way in the service to foreigners is money and being economically unsecure. I did an empirical study of these youths and these are the points that I would like to bring up regarding the tour guide culture of the youths in Mombasa.  These youth sacrifice a lot of their time to learn German, French, Italian, and other European languages so that they may be able to show these Europeans around who didn’t care to learn much about the culture or the language leaving the burden of communication on these determined youths in search of monetary gain. The stress of wearing a “mask” everyday and trying to find a place in this ever so expanding globalized world coupled with the lack of mobility due to finances leads some of these youths to drugs.  These youths hold views of the States and Europe as if the streets are paved with gold and that there are no problems in America if you work hard; not understanding the systems set in place those countries are the same systems that the African governments are trying to synthesize. 

Mr Lamu 1989. This guy though he doesn't look like it is over forty years old. When he was twenty he won the Mr Lamu Award and therefore goes my that name. He too is part of this youth culture and would be considered a beach boy though I've met his wife.

Nanini means "and what" in Kiswahili. I know the youth that wrote this on the walls off Mombasa Old Town. These two words get to the point about the issues the youths are facing. They feel like the rejected/ neglected ones which is why their counter culture was created. They see no place for them in the scheme of the Africa that exists now because they aren't sons of chief and because they are marginalized they transform that space into a place they call home.

Youth knowledge of the world here is fascinating. Most know more about america and it's policies than Americans. Aljazeera, Citizen TV, CNN and WWE (yes wrestling) are the most watched amongst the whole population.

Land Freedom Army (Mau Mau) Suit Against The British

"Kenyan nationals, from left, Ndiku Mutua, Jane Muthoni Mara and Wambugu wa Nyingi are claiming compensation for alleged acts of brutality against them by the British colonial government during the 1950s Mau Mau rebellion. Their case opened in London on April 7." Was in Kenyan Paper "The Daily Nation"

"The British justified their imperial adventures in Kenya by saying they set out to “civilise” the natives.

The methods they used were among the most barbarous employed by any occupying power in the last century and included arbitrary detention of populations in whole regions and the torture and murder of thousands of individuals whose only crime was to defend their right to ancestral land."

Those that oppose the master narrative and dominance was dealt with inhumanely and forgotten. Yet those "Nationalist" we know about were just loyalist to the colonial powers which is understandable because history is a set of lies agreed upon and is always written by the victors. Napoleon and Churchill said the previous words. The voices that are silent to those unheard were the true heros who I acknowledge as so. I will follow this law suit against the british to see if there is a victory here for the revolution. 

These men fought for their lands and were mutilated and tortured by the british but when independence came it was the soliders of independence that benefited but instead it was the sons of loyalist chiefs who bought into white superiority and tried to attain white privilege. This explains why Uhuru Kenyatta, the son of the first president and also decent of loyalist chiefs is rich and own lands that doesn't belong to him. His father use to just go and take land from the people. A banker yesterday told me that Jomo use to come to Mombasa and see nice big buildings built and would go to the owner and give him a shilling saying that the property is now his and they couldn't do anything about it. Sounds like familiar....

Mau Mau hid for Months in these caves.

Great place to hide from the British. There are elaborate tunnels that would take them in and out and was pleasantly cool though I must say it's no place for a tall person. 

The tree that these roots belong to is beyond ancient and if it could speak that stories it must know and the things it must have seen. Fascinating. Even in the heart of these gaves you say the roots. Strong Roots here.

Yeah I thought it was my name too. especially from afar. 

Their Own People

If anybody wishes to state that the people of the sea are not their own people then I challenge them to examine Swahili time and/or explain it. The Swahili tell time like no one else in the world. The Swahili did not conform to the way the Arabs, Indians, Portugese, English, Chinese or any other group they encountered tell time. They start the day at sun rise which is always at 6am world time because to them it made no since to start counting while people were still asleep before the day began. So 7am is Saa Moja which means one hour and therefore 8am is Saa Mbili (second hour). Due to the fact that the Swahili live so close to the equator they can set their clocks to the equinox which means that they have equal day and night. 12 hours of each. After Silent bartering was over each group that traded with the swahili learned Kiswahili which means that the Portuguese, Indians, Chinese, and Arabs had to tell time like this. 

Portugese missionaries helped the spread of Kiswahili into the interiors of East Africa because it was already such a developed language when they arrived. More developed than most of the other languages in the area; Because the Swahili were muslim they already had words for crucifix, god, angels and many other things that would have been hard to try to introduce to the many different languages that existed in the area. Some missionaries didn't want to use Kiswahili because of it's clear connection to Islam but it was the easiest way to spread to the most amount of people.  

Swedish Man in Lamu & Landing in Malindi

So as we sit by the coast of Lamu in the Palace Hotel we meet a Swedish guy in his 50s. Andrew the Swede started to talk to us. After all the tomfoolery and a few irrelevant preliminary conversations he looked at me, said my name wrong and asked if he could ask me a question. I said sure with a look of "PLEASE DON'T SAY SOMETHING STUPID". (One is allowed to hope). He said, "I know what it's like to be white in Africa but what is it like to be Black in Africa?" I then gave him the why you say something stupid face. Noticing how stupid it sounds to ask a Black person/African what it feels like to be Black in Africa he said, "I mean being a Black American in Africa"which still isn't a better question. He saw the (white) privilege that I had and was surprised that I was Black and was wondering what it felt be the only black people in an all Black island to have just as much privilege as he. 

The question should be reversed and should be furthered by asking why do some whites feel a need to come to "developing countries" just to feel superior, important, adequate or maybe even comfortable. A more interesting question would be "why do whites feel so comfortable in a place where they are the minority/ what are you doing in Africa?

I wish I could have answered Swedish Andrew with my experience in the coming day

  So either this is EXACTLY how a terrorist looks or they were singling out Cheickna and I as soon as we landed in Malindi. Apparently when we were waiting for our plane in Lamu to Malindi amongst only/majority whites "someone" pointed out the two darkest brothers on the thirty passenger plane as "suspicious". So when we landed we were greeted by "authorities" (one guy with an AK 47 and the other with a serious look and bad pronunciation of our names.) We were asked for our passports. Cheickna was furious. In a Muslim nation we were suspicious because we were wearing a hat (Kofia). 40 minutes of our life wasted in trying to prove that Cheickna and I are not terrorist with American passports. It didn't help that my passport states that I was not American born, our names were both West African and we claimed to be American (good thing we had an "American Accent") nor did it help that Cheickna and I have the EXACT same birthday except I'm one year older.

He wrote down all the info on our ID's and Passports but then his superior comes in and says that they need a photocopy of our passport but they didn't have a scanner or any means of coping it there. So the Academic Director, Cheickna and I had to go to a store and get a copy while he followed on a motocycle. We gave him the copy and he said, "sorry brothers we too are muslim but we must do our jobs." 

So, what's it like to be conscious in the Black Continent? It's frustrating to see the "others" who have shaped a place that's not theirs so much so that till this day they feel entitled to come and go as they please. While locals cant move around as freely because they don't have the money that the "others" have amassed doing god knows what. To the the point that "locals" look out of place in their own space. Europeans and other westerners use Africa as  an "under developed Las Vegas" where their money goes even further. They are addicted, fasinated, and obssesed with Africa so they take advantage of the sad situations in Africa that was instigated by colonialism and now by business and Neo-Colonialism. Jomo Kenyatta opened up Kenya to the Westerners after independence as if he forgot the struggle and lives lost to attain independence from England. An Independence that was done through much bloodshed ie Land Freedom Army (falsely labeled Mau Mau). 

I guess there is a reason why whites settled in Kenya during colonialism and dubbed the name, "White Man's Land". Maybe someone should pull out a map and point out Europe.  

Taita & Kilwayu Pictures

Where we slept for two day in Kilwayu

BOSS in Taita

On Top of Vuria in Taita

Kiwayu

Where the guys slept

What We floated in on

The island of Kiwayu is even smaller than Lamu and should be about 40 miles away from Lamu; but for some reason it was a four hour trip there and a nine hour journey back. We ran out of gas and had to sail 90% of the way back which would have been okay of the winds weren't blowing at 5mph.
Despite the irregular amount of time spend on water Kiwayu was a pleasant place because of it's remote location. There was no electricity and we slept two nights on beach while the girls slept in the tree house.
First day there we went to the white sand beach and played soccer. 5v4 against the locals and we still didn't win though we held our own. Ate dinner and built a camp fire on the beach.  The director of the program, Athman, invited all of us around the fire to try some octopus. Tried it but have absolutely no desire to try it again.

Returning to Lamu. Maulidi Mubarak

Second day we snorkeled around 10am with some local sailboats and sailors. Had shark for lunch which by the way is way better than octopus. We slept through soccer and made a bonfire.

Sleeping in the Bow of the boat. It was HOT on DECK. Marisa decided to join since clearly I look to be comfortable. 

Maulidi First Few Days

DHOW RACE TOMORROW! The crew will sleep on boat to insure that no one sabotages

     Maulidi is a week long celebration in honor of the birth of the prophet Muhammad. The holiday is very controversial in the islamic community. Orthodox muslims like the Wahhabi considers the act "haram", which is a sin. They argue that the prophet never celebrated his birthday like this therefore it is not "Sunna". Sunna is anything that the prophet did that was not said by Allah but is considered good to mimic though if you don't you are not punished. It's used to enhance one's faith. They consider the Maulidi to be blasphemous and nearing idol worship. However on the very muslim island of Lamu they celebrate this week with Donkey Races, Dhow Races, Bow ( like mancala) Competitions, swimming competitions and of course soccer tournaments where there will be monetary prizes for first. Islamic schools known as madrasa's come from kilometers way to chant and represent in the festivals. 

     Lamu is well known for hosting the biggest festival in Eastern Africa today because a man known as Habib Swaleh or Swaleh ibn Alwy ibn Abdullah Jamal al-Lail. Habib Swaleh was a Shariff (a descendant of Prophet Mohamed) of Lamu in the 19th century but his origins are from Yemen. He brought this holiday and made it famous by interfacing the aspects of local culture into the celebrations i.e donkey races ( since lamu has no cars, donkeys are the best mode of transport).
To learn more about the history of Lamu Click here.

     On this day people ask the deceased like Muhammad and Habib to pray and talk to Allah on their behave which is a very African concept that elders and ancestors are the connects between man and the devine. Thinking about how Habib is treated after his death and how the prophet is treated informs that even though Africans were/are invaded, influenced and marginalized they retain there culture and traditions that can never be done away not through colonialism, imperialism or religion. 

Swimming Race! Some of these boys can swim in the Indian Ocean as if they were in the manicured pools we have. They dive off a dhow and swim about 100 meters. 

"Lamu, there is a four-day long festival, since 1990, the National Museums of Kenya, is the sponsor of the celebration. It organizes dancing demonstrations, donkey races, dhow races, Swahili poetry events, Islamic calligraphy competitions, Koranic recitals, henna competition, and other entertainments. Is estimated that at least 50,000 people attend this festival every year"

Swahili Doors

The swahili like the Arabs dont have art or any decorations in or on the house so they get fancy with the design on the door which is allowed. The doors usually state the wealth, occupation and the type of family the man comes from.

Allah & Jah

This game of dominoes as well as the paint on the walls of Lamu clearly depicts that there is a universal development and exchange of ideas. This game is played just like the Jamaicans play it on the island. There are partners that are diagonal from each other. Objective is to  get rid of your dominoes first going clockwise. Everyone gets Seven dominoes. Anyone with the double blank and/or double one's must show it. That person must get rid of that domino before the match is over or else it would be a 50 point deduction.  The winner of the match adds up the partner that lost's dominoes and that will also count against them. First team to 101 loses.

First time I played my partner and I won in three games with only 20 points against us.

Lamu

Beautiful 6:30pm. Before Prayer sight and yes it was a full moon.

First Mosque Built in Lamu in the 14th Century

The Island known for having no cars. Lamu's narrow streets and structure is so old that it can nott support land motor vehicles but there are definitely a colorful array of Dhows, sell boats and speed boats which the "beach boys" operate. The Beach Boys have locks that have become lighter from always being in salt water like the Jamaicans. Lamu is a very muslim small island that has 29 mosques (Msikiti) in a ten mile diameter. One could never miss prayer here.

Voi, Red Elephant Lodge, Safari